Stage 12 and our biggest day by Galen Stilgebauer

Stage 12 of the Tour had the riders leaving from Albertville and racing over the Col de la Madeleine, the Col de la Croix de Fer, and finally finishing up the iconic Alpe d' Huez.  As perhaps you've already read in my previous blog, we climbed the Col de la Madeleine the day before and I had really struggled on that mountain.  I've been cycling long enough to know that one day you can be hurting and then the next your legs can come around.  About half way up the Madeleine, I knew that I didn't have it on that day and I would just try to ride at a pace that would allow me to finish the climb and hopefully have something in the tank for the next day.

Back to stage 12.  The three of us had spent the night in Les Deux Alpes, and had a delicious dinner and a plentiful breakfast.  Feeling frisky and ready to take on the day, I asked Ann if she would be willing to drive to a point halfway in between Allemond and the beginning of the climb of Alpe d' Huez.  This would allow Spencer and I to get in a wonderful descent down to the valley road that would eventually lead to the climb of the Croix de Fer.  


Ann and I had the opportunity to climb the Croix de Fer back in 2013.  On that occasion, we were on a guided trip with rental bikes.  In my estimation, those bikes did not have appropriate gearing.  I seem to remember having a compact with an 11-25 cassette on the back.  We now run a compact 50-34 with an 11-32 for Ann and a Mid-Compact 52-36 with an 11-32 for myself.  Back in the day it was envogue to grind your way up a climb.  Modern technique and technology allow for "easier" gear ratios and allow one to pedal at a higher cadence thus preserving ones' knees.  The way I look at it is we are still pedaling up these mountains under our own power.  It seems that many of the Euros have embraced the Ebike.  Most of the ones that we saw were of the mountain bike variety, but more and more, road bike versions are showing up across the brands.

As Spencer and I reached the valley floor, the roadsides were packed with people getting their bikes and gear ready for the assault up Alpe d' Huez.  We would get there eventually, but first, the Croix de Fer.  As I mentioned, Ann and I had climbed this 5 years priviously and it was a real challenge. it was our first time up a proper Alpe. Until this day, I had never seen my Garmin go into auto pause due to me moving so slowly.  Five years later and tens of thousands of miles in our legs, I felt that we'd have a little more success this go around.  On our way along the valley road, we collected Ann, and the three of us continued together towards the high point of the day.

We seemed to be cruising right along.  The miles clicked right on by and before we knew it, we would arrive at the small village of  Le Rivier- d' Allemond about halfway up the climb.  There is a bit of a cruel section of road here.  It dips down for maybe a kilometer or so and then punches you in the face with a 16% gradient that seems to go on for longer than it should.   


A few switchbacks later, you find yourself at a false summit, riding along a beautiful dammed lake.  There have to be at least 10 different waterfalls emptying themselves into this lake.  All the hillsides are a lush green and all I could hear were the cow bells off in the distance.


One of the many great things about riding over here in Europe are all the roads.  There seem to be roads everywhere!  Multiple routes up, down, and across the landscape.  I've grown quite use to the roads in America.  Super wide and usually with a one way in, one way out type of scenario.  The roads here are better.  The sense of exploration is greater.  On the way up to the Croix de Fer, you come to a restaurant on your left.  If you take this left, the climb becomes the Col de Glandon.  It is a spectacular climb in itself, but not on the menu for today.  As we reached this intersection I made a quick check of the time.  We were getting dangerously close to the time that we'd need to turn around if we were going to try and make it up Alpe d' Huez. 


The thing is, the summit of the Croix de Fer is like right there.  Five or so more minutes of pedaling and we could all say that we did the climb.  We pushed on. 


We made it to the top and took our opportunities to take photos etc.


Now that we'd knocked out this portion of the ride it was time to get moving.  I didn't want to get caught up on these slopes and miss the race ascending the final climb.  I only had one objective in mind and that was to descend to the car as quickly as possible and collect some of my camera gear and then make our way to Alpe d' Huez.  

We reached the afore mentioned restaurant and were "greeted" by a French policeman.  He told us that we would have to walk our bikes down the mountain if we intended on continuing.  This was pretty much out of the question, but I wasn't going to waste time and energy arguing in a language that I barley understood. We walked for about 100 meters and then threw a leg over the bike and descended like our lives depended on it.  Ann told us to go ahead as she has a hard time keeping up on the descents.  I've mentioned previously that I don't climb very well. The opposite holds true when the road points downward.  Spencer and I were flying!  At times tickling 60 miles per hour.  It's interesting to me, some police want you off the road and off your bike, others don't really seem to care.  I wasn't planning on stopping to find out which were which.  I was on a mission.  The thing of it was, the caravan wasn't even set to take off from the start for another hour and then the racers would follow behind by almost 2 hours.  It was time to get to the car already.

We made it to the car with little difficulty and I was moving like a man possessed.  Camera bags being unzipped, gear being loaded into my frame bag and a lukewarm Fanta being slammed in preparation for the final ascent of the day.  I'm not even sure that I asked Spencer if he was ready.  I jumped back on my Traildonkey and pointed myself towards the base of the next climb. We had already been on the bikes for 4.5 hours but I felt like I was just getting started.  What a departure from how I felt the day before.  

We moved along the flat valley road like a two man TT.  Spencer later told me that he felt like we were racing.  We kind of were.  We made it!  We were on the lower slopes on the fabled Alpe d' Huez.  It was now a matter of how far we could make it up the climb before we were told to get off our bikes.  It's a constant battle, believe me.  It was so hot!  I kept on thinking that I was getting a flat tire, but it was the tar filling the cracks in the road that was melting under the extreme temperatures.  

It was a bit strange to me how calm the roadside was.  When Ann and I were here in 2013, it was a total free for all.  There were people all over the road and it seemed like total chaos.  This go around there were barriers off to one side of the road and most people were hiding in the shade and rather subdued.  This climb is not really all that difficult by itself, but after the day we'd already had and what the racers had in their legs, it would be a challenge.  A few K's up the road we found a nice waterfall of sorts.  I wasn't about to drink from it, but I was more than willing to fill my one empty bottle and douse myself in an attempt to bring my temperature down.  Upon remounting our bikes, there was Ann!

Just a few more switchbacks and we'd be at the fabled "Dutch corner".  It's usually pretty wild here and there's plenty to look at as well.


With just a few remaining kilometers to the end of the race, we were finally forced off our bikes.  It was perfect timing in any case because I wanted to end up stopping where there is a road that descends back to where Ann had parked our car.  There were also a couple of bars where we could get food and some well deserved beers.  I'm always wondering about the "perfect" place to get some shots.  You simply can't be everywhere.  I always seem to come away with images that make me happy.  A few beers and a sandwich later, I was primed and ready for the race to come through.  I made my way down tho the roadside and found a spot to shoot.


One by one the race leaders mad their way through the spectator lined road.  It's truly incredible how fast these guys can go up after racing for so many days in a row and this many hours already on the bike.


And just like that, it was over.  The final riders came through, the seemingly endless strings of cars and race vehicles disappeared up the road and the fans filled the roadway to begin their way back down the mountain.


The three of us went back to where we'd left our bikes and headed back to our car.  The side road I'd mentioned earlier was perfect!  Almost no crowds and we were down in the valley in no time.


All that was left was to pack up the car and do yet another drive onto the next chapter of our adventure.   The following day we would have a recovery day of sorts.  Next up for us on the tour would be stage 14.

Col de la Madeleine by Galen Stilgebauer

Stage 13 of the tour had the riders starting in Bourg D' Oisans and finishing in Valence.  Since the race didn't start until 1:30 and we were staying so close to the kickoff, we figured we could squeeze in a little ride before the race got going.  That little ride would end up being the Col de la  Madeleine.  


From our hotel, the beginning of the climb was just about 12 miles of false flat riding away.  I figured it would take 45 minutes to ride to the base and then around 1.5 hours to knock out the climb.  A quick descent and then that same road back to Albertville just in time to see the riders depart.  We had some breakfast, got our things together and hit the road.


That plan fell apart fairly quickly.  My mind wanted to ride, but my body wasn't really having it.  Ann played her usual card of telling us how slow she was going to be and told us not to wait up for her.  Spencer seemed to have decent legs and rode up and back between Ann and I for a while before settling in on staying with Ann.  I was just plain struggling.  The Traildonkey is a fine bike, but it is not a climbing machine by any stretch.  Loaded down with a frame pack and some camera gear only makes the problem worse.  For the most part I'm fine with however long it takes me to get up a climb.  This trip was more about capturing images and exploration for me.  


The side of the climb that we rode is 25.3k long (15.6 miles) and gains 1,585 meters (5230') with an average of 6.2%.  Again, almost all of the climbs over here are very steep coming out of the valley and then there is some respite at some point.  I knew right away that I was going to have a tough day at the office.  When the gradient calmed down it wasn't too  bad, but there was a stretch towards the top that I was having some internal dialogue.


Normally, when I'm feeling good on the bike, if you look over your shoulder I'll usually be riding and taking a picture of something.  There wasn't a whole lot of that going on on this ride.  I did manage to grab a few shots though.


The race would be traveling over this climb the next day on its way to the Croix de Fer and the fans had begun the process of staging and pre partying.  There was a whole contingency of VW vans that we would see throughout the rest of the tour stages that we spectated.

As the road continued up, Ann and Spencer were long gone.  I decided to just try to manage my effort and scope out some potential photo opportunities on the way back down the mountain.  At my current pace, I also realized that there was no way that we were going to make the start today.



I finally made it to the top and Spencer, for one, didn't appear to be too worried about anything.  He was enjoying a 6 euro ice cream and the warming rays of the abundant sunshine.

Europe's tallest peak, Mont Blanc(15,777'), off in the distance.

Europe's tallest peak, Mont Blanc(15,777'), off in the distance.

I took a minute to compose myself and ordered a beer to begin the recovery process.  After discussing the fact that we'd not be seeing the start of the race, I suggested that we try to find a bar in one of the villages down the mountain where we might try to catch the tour on television.  We consumed our choice of treats, grabbed an obligatory summit photo and proceeded down to the lower slopes.



About halfway down, we stopped at the first bar we came to.  No TV.  Keep moving.  Next village, next bar, TV, stop for more beer and tour watching.  These two kids were hanging out by the pool table.  They both seemed so concerned with what was going on in the race, it was awesome.



An interesting side note.  There are many, many, many, black flies in France and nobody seems to mind them.  I found them quite distracting.  We finished watching the stage, drained our beers, and pointed the bikes back in the direction of our hotel.  We would have a short lived life of relaxation as we needed to pack up our things and drive to Les Deux Alpes a short 2 hour drive away.  As the saying goes, "no rest for the weary".


To France for a bike race by Galen Stilgebauer

My first time to France was in 2013.  My wife Ann and I came over to spectate the 100th edition of the Tour de France and do some cycling while following the race.  Since that time we have been fortune enough to visit Italy and watch the Giro d' Italia in 2016, 17' and 18'.  

This year we moved to northern Italy for a year and wanted to try and take in some more of the European cycling season.  At the beginning of July, our cousin Spencer contacted me and said that he wanted to come over and visit us before he had to start school in early August back in Boulder.

Ann and I already had plans to go to France for a couple of weeks, so we invited him along for what would not only be his first experience in Europe, but also his first time seeing a grand tour.  The week before he showed up I was riding a bunch and ended up riding 300 miles with over 35,000' of climbing.  That was the biggest week of cycling for me since 2016.  My fitness was coming back and I was excited to do some big riding.

The first day Spencer was here, I took him on a few of my favorite roads around Bassano del Grappa.  We rode some short punchy climbs and ended up in Asolo just in time for the cappuccino cut off at noon.  We kind of need to hustle back to the apartment as we were given a "hard out" of 1:30.  That time came and went and I believe we finally got our Volkswagen Up loaded and on the road by 2:30.

We had quite the drive ahead of us.  We needed to make it to Annecy by 9pm and that was at least a 6 hour drive.  It's an incredibly beautiful drive across northern Italy and then you reach Mont Blanc.  I'm a little bummed that I didn't even stop to take one photo, but we really had to try and make this time cut off.  

As we arrived in Annecy, there were honking car horns and crazed French soccer fans all over the place.  France had just won the World Cup and the people were loving it.  It was easy to get caught up in the excitement.  I may have honked my horn a couple or maybe 50 times.

The tour had a rest day the next day and we decided to do a ride around Lake Annecy.  With a flat bike path around half the lake and a cycling friendly road on the other side, we set out for a 25 mile spin to get the legs ready for what was to come over the next couple of weeks.

During our ride we spotted riders from a few of the pro teams and even had a close encounter with Andre Gripel.  It's an interesting sensation that happens when you ride your bike next to a body of water on a hot day.  All we wanted to do was go swimming and after the ride that's exactly what we did.  If  you're ever there and have the chance to take a dip in that water, it's highly recommended.



The following day was to be our first day chasing the tour.  It was stage 10 from Annecy to Le Grand-Bornand and it was the first day the race went into the mountains.  I'm no climber, but I do enjoy the process of getting up a big mountain.  Your body falls into a rhythm and you just get through it.  At least that's how it is for me.  This year I came to Europe with a couple of new ways to document the racing action.  I bought a Rodeo labs ( Traildonkey and had Jpaks ( out of Denver make me a custom frame pack in order to allow me to carry camera gear on the bike and free my back from the pack.  Both of these things work great, but it makes getting up the climbs even more difficult.  It's like pedaling an Ebike up the mountain without any of the E.  The bike is pretty heavy with this set up, but for me it's totally worth it when I come away with some good images.


When you go to ride ahead of a stage, you need to start pretty early.  Like 6 hours before the stage early.  The police start to close roads to vehicle traffic and getting around is pretty tough.  If you're on a bike it's not really a problem until maybe 30 minutes before Le caravan starts rolling.  With some creative navagating, we arrived in Thorens Glieres.  This was to be our starting point.  The race would have already climbed a cat 4, cat 1, and a HC before reaching this point.  We planned on riding the course to the Col de la Colombiere after first tackling the Col de Romme which is a 8.8 km climb that averages 8.9%.  Like most of the climbs over here, the first few km's are quite steep and then there's a bit of letting up.  By the time we reached the bottom of the Col de Romme we'd already ridden 40k (25 miles) and were feeling pretty good and warm.  Those first few pitches really packed a punch though.  After riding for an hour on mostly flat terrain, it takes a little while for the body to adjust to the new rhythm.  

Spencer is a fly weight and got his first taste of what I call "tour watts".  It's pretty cool that many of the spectators that have been positioned on the road side will cheer you on as you make your way up the mountain.  He was flying at times!  As cool as it was to watch him disappear up the mountain, I could only think to myself, he'll regret that later.  Following the tour is similar to racing it I would guess.  It's a marathon, not a sprint.  The efforts you do early, you pay for eventually.  We all learn these lessons at different times and this being his first tour, I figured I would let him learn them on his own.

After summiting the Col, it took a bit of convincing to get Ann to descend down into the valley and to the base of the Colombiere.  She was hesitant about the effort of climbing back out and the 3hr ride back to the car.  She had also been doing a lot of riding back in Italy and I convinced her she would be fine.  We arrived at the base of the next climb just around the time that the roads would start being closed for the caravan.  I wanted to find a good spot to shoot some photos, but I was also getting hungry.  Ann and I decided to descend a few switchbacks back into the village below and Spencer continued to climb up the race route.


Luckily for us, Ann and I found a bar with a TV, cold beers, and delicious sausages with fries.  We indulged, and indulged heavily.  I think it was after the second round of beers, I thought we should probably try to get ahold of Spencer and let him know where we were.  5 missed calls and another beer later, Spencer called me back.  I let him know what we were up to and we came up with a plan to meet up a few turns up the mountain.  Ann and I downed our beers and shoved the remainder of the fries into our mouths and hit the road.

The king of the panini!

The king of the panini!

The Caravan had passed through and the race was on its way soon.  The fans that had been waiting on the roadside were thirsty for action.  Powered on by tour watts and beer, I put in a short effort.  Lots of cheers erupted as I rode by.  30 seconds later I was dead.  So much for tour watts.  Just around the corner from my effort, Spencer was waiting.


The race vehicles began rolling through and I found a vantage point from which I wanted to take some images.  It's always exciting when the racers come through.  Everyone has been waiting there for hours.  Usually drinking.  The first rider through was Julian Alaphilippe - Wikipedia.  He had gone on a solo breakaway and by the size of his lead, looked to be on his way to a stage win.


The French fans get whipped up into a frenzy when their countrymen come through.  Soon the yellow jersey wearer, Greg Van Avermaet, would come rolling through followed by the sprinters and the other riders that had been working earlier for their team leaders.  Setting up on a climb is the best way to see your favorite riders.  Even though they may not be climbers, they still come through pretty quickly.  They are in the world tour after all.


After the riders came through and the beer buzz had worn off, it was time to ride back to our car.


 35 miles, 4000' and an emergency pizza stop for Spencer, we were back at the car.  We changed out  of our cycling kit that we had spent nearly 10 hours in, loaded up the bikes and attempted to head back to our hotel in Albertville.  I say attempted because in a rush to get out on the bikes, I had accidentally left the headlights on.  Most cars these days have an automatic switch for the headlights.  Not our car.  Oh no, that would be too much to ask.  Luckily, just as we discovered the battery was dead, there was a nice French woman that pulled into the parking lot.  With some help from Google translate, we were able to communicate our issue and she was willing and able to help us out.  This would not be the last time we had an issue with our car, but that's a story for another time.  Two hours  later we would be back in our rooms and ready to rest up for another day of adventure following the biggest bicycle race in the world.


Italy, so far... by Galen Stilgebauer

Well, I've been in Italy for about six weeks now.  I showed up with a broken wrist and not really being able to ride my bike much.  My wife and I came over here with the expectation of following the Giro d' Italia for our third consecutive year running.  Obviously photography is a passion of mine and so is cycling.  I've been into cycling for most of my life and got pretty serious about it about 8 years ago.  Being able to combine the two passions is certainly rewarding.


Riding my bike with a broken wrist provided some challenges.  That probably goes without saying, but I love the energy that is out there on the sides of the roads during bike races and I feel that I capture the racing and the scene in a unique way.  This is why I choose to ride uphill with all my gear.  I feel like it gives me the same perspective as the racers and I see what they see.  Being in a car and not feeling the sting in your legs and lungs just isn't the same.



It isn't always all the about the racing though.  It's about finding our way to the next town, the next stage, the next adventure.  For me, there's nothing better than being somewhere for the first time.  Looking at something for the first time with fresh eyes.  You'll never see it the same way again.  It kind of forces you to live in the moment.


Everyday you wake up and fill your lungs with air is a gift.  I'm grateful for the opportunity to be able to go out and find these beautiful scenes and to be able to share them with those that choose to follow along.


These are just a few of the many frames I have captured.  I'm always looking froward to the next thing that will catch my eye.  Until then...